Learn Hand Embroidery Stitches: Techniques for Beginners and Beyond

Hand embroidery has always felt like a bit of magic to me. With just a needle and thread, you can create something unique—a tiny piece of art stitched by hand.

It’s not just about following patterns; it’s about experimenting, exploring, and letting your creativity take the lead.

Creating Shapes and Filling with Texture

The other day, I decided to try something new. I sketched a jumble of overlapping circles and ovals onto fabric—no grand plan, just pencil scribbles to give me a starting point.

I grabbed some Fine Cotton from Oliver Twist, paired it with Pearl Cotton no. 8 (because why not?), and started stitching. It quickly turned into an impromptu stitch sampler.

What I love most about this kind of project is how the stitches bring the shapes to life.

Each one has its own texture and character, and together they create something wonderfully unpredictable. Some stitches are smooth and flowing, others bold and bumpy, and a few felt like happy surprises as I stitched.

In this first sampler, I used nine stitches, each adding its own flair:

• Closed herringbone stitch adds a subtle, almost quilted texture.
• Satin stitch paired with a split stitch outline creates a smooth, defined shape.
• Chain stitch filling is simple but wonderfully effective.
• Seeding stitch, framed by a neat stem stitch, gives a delicate, airy feel.
• A French knot centre, surrounded by detached chain stitch, forms a dainty little flower.
• Trellis couching, teamed with stem stitch, looks like a charming net pattern.
• A spider’s web centre, edged with blanket stitch, turned into an unexpected firework burst.
• Open fishbone stitch added a lovely leafy element to the mix.

 

Exploring Hand Embroidery Stitches

What I love about hand embroidery is how one stitch can do so many different jobs.

Take chain stitch or stem stitch—they’re not just for outlining. They can bring texture, depth, and a bit of personality to your designs too. The more I experiment, the more I’m amazed by how flexible these stitches are—it’s what keeps me coming back for more.

Over time, I’ve stumbled across a few tips that work brilliantly for filling shapes with texture and character:

• Side-by-Side Rows: Placing multiple rows of the same stitch together creates a solid, filled area.

• Spiral Patterns: Starting at the edge and spiraling inward is perfect for filling circular shapes. You’ll see this in shape 3 of the sampler.

• Full-Width Stitches: Stretching a stitch right across the width of a shape, as I did in shapes 1 and 8, gives a bold, clean finish.

• Detached Stitches as Fill: Grouping small, detached stitches tightly together (or clustering them loosely) adds texture and depth. You’ll notice this in the centre and edges of shape 5.

In the next section, I’ll walk you through how to use these techniques in your own embroidery projects. Once you start exploring the possibilities, you’ll never look at a shape the same way again!

Solid or Open: Creating Contrast in Your Stitching

When I first started working on fully enclosed areas, my instinct was to fill every single inch of fabric with dense stitches. (More is more, right?)

But as I went on, I realised that combining solid, stitched areas with lighter, open techniques creates a much more interesting contrast.

Take the four diaper patterns in the photo below, for example. By repeating embroidery motifs in horizontal, diagonal, or random arrangements, you can add wonderful variety to your fills. The patterns are striking without feeling overwhelming.

For this piece, I used a mix of no. 12 cotton pearl thread and two strands of DMC Light Effects thread for a bit of shimmer. To keep the designs crisp, I outlined each heart shape with a simple stem stitch. 

Let's take a closer look at the filling stitches I used, starting from the top left:

• Sheaf Stitch: This structured yet airy design is ideal for lighter fills.

• Ermine Stitch: A straightforward pattern featuring elegant diagonal details.

• Tete de Boeuf: A stitch that resembles a bull's head and horns, adding a touch of personality to your design.

• Four-Legged Knot: An interesting knotted stitch that adds texture.

In the following sections, I'll introduce you to these embroidery stitches so you can have a try yourself.

Sheaf stitch

The Sheaf Stitch is an understated yet beautiful filling stitch, perfect for creating light, open textures.

Ermine Filling

The Ermine Stitch combines simplicity and elegance, with diagonal accents for added interest.

Tete de Boeuf

This stitch, named for its resemblance to a bull’s head and horns, adds a whimsical touch to your embroidery.

1. Start with a Fly Stitch: Make a small “V” shape then catch it down with a detached chain stitch.
2. Adjust for Tension: Avoid pulling the thread too tightly to maintain the soft, rounded shape of the "horns."

Four-legged knot

This stitch resembles an upright cross stitch with a diagonal tie down stitch. I found it took practice to achieve the hand movement necessary for the knotted part, but it was well worth persevering.

Thank you for stopping by

Thank you for visiting and exploring the world of hand embroidery stitches with me.

Whether you're new to embroidery or refining your skills, I hope these techniques inspire you to create stunning embroidery patterns and designs.

For more ideas, check out the stitch index, where you’ll find step-by-step tutorials for a variety of embroidery stitches.

Stay connected between projects

If you’d like occasional updates from my embroidery room, including new patterns, gentle tips, and little things I think you might enjoy, you’re warmly invited to join the Stitchin’ Times newsletter.

No pressure. Just a friendly note now and then to keep you inspired.