Bullion Stitch 101: Learn the Basics and Beyond

I Learned a Trick From an Expert

What You Can Create With Bullion Stitch

Bullion stitch in action — roses, knots, and textured details

When done correctly, bullion knots can create perfect little shapes — roses, caterpillars, strawberries, even starfish — and give a 3D effect that makes your embroidery stand out. They can also add a real sense of accomplishment when mastered.

Bullion stitch does require patience and a steady hand, and getting the tension right takes a little practice. But that's exactly what this tutorial is here for. I'll walk you through it step by step, share the trick that changed everything for me, and show you some lovely projects to try once you've got the hang of it.

Ready? Let's start wrapping.

How to Work a Bullion Stitch

STEP 1

Start Your Stitch

Use a single strand of embroidery floss. Poke the needle up through the fabric at one end of the stitch.

Take a small bit of fabric onto the needle and come back up through the first hole. The length of the stitch depends on the thread and desired knot size.

STEP 2

Hold and Position

Push the needle almost all the way through the fabric, but not completely.

To keep it in place, press your thumb against the fabric near the needle and use your index finger to steady the thread wraps behind the needle.

STEP 3

Wrap the Thread

Holding the thread with your other hand, twist the thread around the needle at least six times.

Gently nudge the loops down towards the fabric and keep them in place with your index finger. Continue wrapping until you've got enough loops for the desired stitch length.

Check the wraps will make a long enough bullion by placing the needle along the stitch path.

STEP 4

Pull Through and Secure

If you are satisfied, use your thumb and index finger to ease the needle through the thread wraps and gently pull the needle free until the knot sits on top of the fabric.

Lay the fabric flat, nudge the knot into place, then poke the needle down through the fabric next to where the thread comes out.

And there you have it — your first bullion stitch!

Making a Bullion Loop

To make a bullion loop, wrap more thread around the needle than the space where it goes into and comes out of the fabric.

When you pull the needle through, the thread forms a twisty loop. This stitch is also called the coil stitch or caterpillar stitch.

How to Make a Bullion Rose

To create a bullion rose from three toning coloured threads, follow these steps:

STEP 1

The Centre

Start with the darkest colour and make two bullion knots side by side.

STEP 2

The Middle Petals

Use the medium-coloured thread to make longer stitches, focusing them around the centre two bullions. Make each stitch overlap the previous one, creating a staggered pattern.

STEP 3

Build the Shape

Continue making bullion knots around the centre, increasing the number of wraps for each stitch. As you work, the stitches will start to take on a natural, curved shape.

STEP 4

The Outer Petals

When you're ready, switch to the lightest coloured thread and make more bullion knots, using two strands of floss for added texture. Nestle these outside the previous stitches.

FINISHING TOUCHES

Add Stem and Leaf

Once finished, add a stem to the rose using a pencil and straight stitches. Make sure it's thick enough to look as though it could hold the rose, but not too chunky.

You might also want to add a leaf. There is a whole page on stitching leaves here.

A handful of bullion knots becomes a rose — isn't that lovely?

Bullion Stitch Strawberries

Bullion stitch strawberries on a quilt block

I added bullion stitch strawberries to my quilt block using one strand of red thread.

Start with two bullion stitches, then add more rows, working down to the tip of the berry. Overlap each stitch in the centre to make the berries look plump. Aim for 6–8 bullion knots per berry.

This simple technique adds a charming touch to the quilt.

Bullion Stitch Flowers

White bullion knot petals with lazy daisy stitches and pearl beads

I love crazy quilt embroidery. This photo shows white bullion knots made into petals and surrounded by detached lazy daisy stitches with pearl seed beads. The bullion flowers are between mother-of-pearl buttons, which are attached with green thread and have a bead on top to look like another flower.

You could use bullion stitches to attach the buttons, making the whole piece a celebration of bullions and creativity.

Bullion Starfish

Five bullion knots in a circle create a starfish motif

I had an idea for an under-the-sea themed quilt block. I used five bullion knots in a circle to create a starfish motif using crochet thread.

The bullion knot starfish turned out to be my favourite part. They show that sometimes, simple touches can make a piece special.

What Went Wrong?

A common mistake — loose threads beside each bullion stitch

The bullion stitch requires the needle to be inserted in a specific direction. If you do it wrong, the stitch will be uneven.

I made a mistake and inserted the needle from the outside instead of the centre, resulting in loose threads laying aside each bullion stitch. This is a common error and can be frustrating, but when it happens it's an opportunity to learn and improve.

Ready to Give Bullion Stitch a Try?

When learning the bullion stitch, you may face frustrations like tangled threads and uneven knots. But with practice and persistence, you can master the technique and create beautiful designs.

Remember that mistakes are part of the process, and with time, you'll create stunning pieces.