What is Blackwork Embroidery? Learn the Basics and Get Started

My love for blackwork embroidery began at school. I noticed a friend creating a stunning frog using black and gold thread.

Ever since, my love for this needlework technique has grown. After 50 years of stitching, I am so excited to share it with you!

I'll begin with a little about it's history.

Already a fan of blackwork? Check out my downloadable patterns

An Introduction to Blackwork

Although blackwork dates back to Tudor times, its style and materials have evolved over the years.

Originally stitched with black silk thread on white fabric, today it is common to see blackwork done in any colour. Metallic threads and beads are also often used.

Blackwork embroidery enables you to stitch natural elements such as flowers, leaves, fruits, and animals as well as intricate geometric designs.

Many stitchers enjoy the challenge of creating reversible blackwork. This involves stitching every other stitch in one journey and then going back to fill in the missing stitches.

When choosing a pattern for your project, keep in mind that it won't look the same on both sides if it includes isolated stitches. 

To make sure everything goes smoothly, seasoned stitchers like to map out their projects on paper. They make copies of the pattern and mark the different stitches with colors or highlights, making it simple to spot any potential roadblocks along the way.

The stitch used for this is the double running stitch, also known as the Holbein stitch. It gained its name from the artist Hans Holbein, who often painted his subjects wearing clothes decorated in this manner.

His portrait of Simon George shows both sides of an open collar decorated with blackwork stitching, illustrating its reversible nature. He also painted a portrait of Jane Seymour, the 3rd wife of Henry VIII. In the painting, her cuffs have a wide stitched border.

It was quicker to stitch lace-like patterns than to make real lace. Therefore, this type of embroidery was often referred to as "poor man's lace."

Reversing the colours can make blackwork embroidery look like lace. This is particularly true for this calla lily design, which uses white thread on a dark background. 

Today finished pieces can be framed or made into various household items, such as pillows, bookmarks, coasters or table coverings. Of course you can still embroider on your clothing if you wish.

Free blackwork patterns to get you started

My simple blackwork patterns will teach you the basics. Once you have mastered them, you can move on to more advanced techniques, like shading.

I have listed the lessons in the same order as I teach my live classes. I would suggest you start with lesson one, rather than jumping in at the deep end. Put aside around two hours for each lesson, but don't worry if you take longer to begin with.

You can use either Aida or an evenweave linen or cotton fabric for this technique. Choose the embroidery floss colour of your choice. You will also need a tapestry needle with a blunt tip. An embroidery hoop is optional. 

Learn how to do blackwork embroidery

• Do I start with the outlines and what stitch should I use?
• How are fill patterns worked?
• Do you have an instruction book I can download?
• How do I attach beads to my projects?
• Read Maria's story of creative inspiration

Patterns for you to Download and Stitch

Click the images below. They will take you to sections in my online store. Here, you can purchase and download patterns directly to your computer. Instantly!