You will definitely find a use for herringbone stitch in your projects, be they decorative or functional. The stitch is easy to work, covers the fabric quickly and has many variations.
However, let's start with learning how to create a basic straight row. Then we will look at how we can vary things.
Work this stitch from left to right along your row.
You can work herringbone either freestyle or as a counted thread stitch. For our first example below, we are using 28 count evenweave so you can see more easily how the stitch is created.
While practicing on non-evenweave fabrics you may like to draw two parallel lines which will form the top and bottom of your row.
I used DMC Perle cotton number 5 for this sample.
Please note that the number of fabric threads you work over can be different to mine. I wanted to make the stitches big enough for you to see easily in my demonstration.
Bring the needle up at the bottom of your first stitch, or in this case, the bottom of the next stitch in sequence.
Count over six threads to the right and then six up. This is where you will reinsert your needle.
Work a small backstitch by bringing the needle back through the fabric two threads to the left of where it went down.
Count eight holes to the right of the last used stitch along the bottom of your row of herringbone stitches and take the needle to the back.
The stitch itself will cover six fabric threads. This brings us back to where we began in the first photograph above.
The photograph below shows the completed row of herringbone stitch.
You may find it quicker to work this stitch without a hoop. However, you will need to ensure that you do not pull your thread too tightly otherwise you can end up with puckered fabric.
The photographs are enlarged here. As you are stitching you will not see the individual fabric threads as you did in the previous example, so there is no need to count them.
As before, bring the needle up at the left of your row. Now you will take a short straight stitch above and to the right, with your needle facing back the way you have come. Insert your needle, and without pulling it all the way through, push the point back through to the surface a little further along. Then pull the needle through the fabric carefully, guiding the thread so it doesn't knot or tangle.
Keeping the needle facing from right to left, take a similarly sized stitch along the bottom of your row, trying to keep it level with your previous stitch. This is where those penciled lines can help when you are first learning the stitch.
Repeat the first step by taking your little bite of fabric on the needle along the top edge of your row.
Try to ensure that the angle of this stitch matches that of the first diagonal stitch you worked.
Continue along your row in the same manner, taking little stitches first at the top and then the bottom, keeping your angles and the size of your short stitches consistent.
Now look at the back of your sample row, notice how most of the thread is on the front of your work. All that shows on the back are two rows of horizontal straight stitches.
If you have worked on a fine, see-through cloth you may see the diagonal stitches faintly showing through from the right side.
This is the basis of the Shadow Work technique, although in this case, you would work the stitches close together as in the photographs above. This forms a denser "fill" between the top and bottom lines. The lines will resemble backstitch, more than running stitch.
You can decorate a single row of this stitch by using another colour or weight of thread.
The photo shows an upright cross worked where the first three stitches intersect. I took the needle through the fabric here.
For the rest of the row, I laced the floss through the diagonal stitches by slipping the needle under the stitches without taking it through the fabric. Alternate the position of your needle, so it point towards the top of your work as it goes under one diagonal, and to the bottom for the next.
The next photo shows a crazy quilt block where I worked a second row of herringbone between the first row, using a different coloured thread. I also added detached chain stitches to decorate the seam further.
You could get even fancier by adding fly stitch "leaves" to make these into little flowers.
If you like double herringbone why not try triple? Here I used three different threads to work rows of herringbone stitch along a crazy quilt seam. I started with a pale turquoise stranded cotton, then a hand dyed Perle 8 and I completed it with an ecru Perle 12 thread. Your line can grow wider or narrower. It doesn't have to stay exactly the same size throughout.
You can decorate the basic herringbone stitch with other stitches for an attractive effect. This method of combining stitches for rows or borders is often used when embellishing crazy quilt seams.
Here I used the sample stitched at the top of this page and added 3 straight stitches at the centre top of each horizontal stitch. I made the shorter straight stitch over 4 fabric threads and then the longer ones each side went down in a diagonal direction 2 holes away. I used a hand-dyed Perle thread for these additional stitches.
You can take this further and add even more stitches to the mix. In the next photograph I used blue Perle cotton to work a group of four French knots at the end of the straight stitch stems I made in the last step above.
I think they look a little like hydrangeas in the spring, don't you?
Instead of French knots you could use detached chain stitches to create a daisy-like flower. You could also make the leaves with detached chain.
Each time I use herringbone stitch in a design or along a crazy quilt seam from now on, I will take a photograph and add it to this page.