Herringbone Stitch: Discover it's Versatility

The herringbone stitch is a versatile and beautiful stitch that can be used in various ways, such as:

  • Creating a pretty border
  • Holding up a hem on a garment
  • Embellishing the seams on a crazy quilt block
  • Adding delicate, colored stitching to the reverse of a fine fabric

The Origins of the Herringbone Stitch

But why is it called the herringbone stitch?

Interestingly, it got its name from its resemblance to the bones of the herring fish. (Although, it's worth noting that whoever came up with the name might not have been an expert on fish anatomy!)

You might also know it as the plaited stitch or catch stitch.

 

A Type of Crossed Stitch

The herringbone is a versatile and valuable addition to your sewing toolkit, categorized among the crossed stitches.

I love it because it's easy to work and offers flexibility. You can use it for counted sewing or get creative with a more freestyle approach.

Check this page for more information on the different categories or types of stitches.

Quick Links to help you navigate this page

Working in a hoop

Working in the hand

Closed herringbone

Tied and laced

Double herringbone

Triple herringbone

Combining other stitches

How to do herringbone stitch

Before we explore its many variations, let's learn how to create the basic straight row of the herringbone stitch.

To make it easier to demonstrate, I used 28-count evenweave fabric for my first example. If you're practicing on non-evenweave fabrics, you may find it helpful to draw two parallel lines to mark the top and bottom of your row.

Work this stitch from left to right along your row.

Working in a hoop

completed herringbone stitch example

For this demonstration, I used DMC Perle cotton number 5 and an embroidery hoop to keep the fabric flat and taut.

Please keep in mind that the number of fabric threads you work over may vary from mine. I intentionally made my stitches larger so that you can easily see them in this demonstration.

Step 2

bring the needle up at the bottom of your first stitch, or if you're already in progress, at the bottom of the next stitch in sequence.

Count over six threads to the right, and then count up six threads. This is where you will reinsert your needle, ensuring accurate placement for the next stitch.

Step 1

Work a small backstitch by bringing the needle back through the fabric, two threads to the left of where it went down.  

Step 3

Count eight holes to the right of the last used stitch along the bottom of your row of herringbone stitches. Then, take the needle to the back.

The stitch itself will cover six fabric threads. This will bring you back to the starting point, as shown in the first photograph above.

Take a look at the photograph to see what a completed row of herringbone stitch should look like.

Working in the hand

For this sample, I used a thread from my needlework basket that's equivalent to a Perle 8 cotton, paired with a crewel needle and white 300 thread count embroidery fabric.

You may find it more efficient to work this stitch without a hoop. Just remember to maintain a gentle tension on your thread, as pulling too tightly can cause the fabric to pucker.

I've enlarged the photographs to help illustrate the process. As you stitch, you won't need to count individual fabric threads like we did in the previous example, so feel free to focus on the stitch itself.

Step 1

in hand step 1

Bring your needle up at the left of your row. Now, take a short straight stitch above and to the right, making sure your needle is facing back in the direction you came from.

Insert your needle into the fabric, but don't pull it all the way through. Instead, gently push the point back through to the surface, about a little further along. Then, carefully pull the needle through the fabric, guiding the thread with your fingers to prevent knots or tangles.

Step 2

in hand step 2

Hold the needle with the point facing from right to left. This will help you maintain a consistent stitch direction.

Take a similarly sized stitch along the bottom of your row, aiming to keep it level with your previous stitch. This is crucial for a uniform pattern.

If you're new to this stitch, don't forget to use those penciled lines as a guide. They'll help you stay on track and ensure your stitches are even.

Step 3

Working herringbone stitch without a hoop

Now, let's move forward with the next step in our stitching journey! Take a small bite of fabric on your needle, positioning it along the top edge of your row.

As you do this, pay attention to the angle of your stitch. Try to match it to the angle of the first diagonal stitch you worked earlier. This will help you maintain a consistent and beautiful pattern.

Step 4

Herringbone worked out of a hoop

Continue stitching along your row, following these simple steps:

Take small stitches at the top and then the bottom of your row, maintaining consistent angles and short stitch sizes.

Remember to keep your tension even, ensuring the fabric lies smooth and flat. 

Closed herringbone stitch

Closed herringbone from the front
Shadow embroidery

Take a closer look at the back of your sample row. You'll notice that most of the thread is on the front of your work, with only two rows of horizontal straight stitches visible on the back.

If you're working with a fine, see-through fabric, you might catch a glimpse of the diagonal stitches faintly showing through from the right side.

This is the foundation of the Shadow Work technique. To achieve this effect, you'll need to work the stitches close together, as shown in the photographs above. This creates a denser "fill" between the top and bottom lines, resembling backstitch more than running stitch.

Tied and laced herringbone

You can decorate a single row of this stitch by using another colour or weight of thread. To complete the row, follow these steps.

Tied and laced herringboneLacing the Floss through Diagonal Stitches

1. Thread the needle: Slip the needle under the diagonal stitches, but don't take it through the fabric.

2. Alternate needle position: As you lace the floss, alternate the direction of your needle. For one diagonal stitch, point the needle towards the top of your work. For the next, point it towards the bottom.

Double herringbone

Double herringbone

Take a look at the next photo, where I embellished my crazy quilt block. 

I added a second row of herringbone stitching between the first row, using a different colored thread to create a beautiful contrast.

To further decorate the seam, I incorporated detached chain stitches for an extra touch of elegance.

If you're feeling adventurous, you could take it up a notch by adding fly stitch "leaves" to transform these stitches into charming little flowers. The possibilities are endless.

Triple herringbone

Triple herringbone

If you're a fan of the double herringbone stitch, why not take it to the next level with triple herringbone?

This variation offers a unique opportunity to add more texture and visual interest to your crazy quilt seams.

To create a triple herringbone stitch, you'll need three different threads. For this example, I chose a pale turquoise stranded cotton, a hand-dyed Perle 8, and an ecru Perle 12 thread. You can select threads that complement each other in terms of color, texture, or weight to achieve the desired effect.

Begin by working rows of herringbone stitch along your crazy quilt seam, alternating between your three chosen threads. You can adjust the width of your line as you go, making it wider or narrower to add visual interest. The beauty of this stitch lies in its flexibility – it doesn't have to remain the same size throughout.

Tips and Variations

Feel free to experiment with different thread combinations and widths to create a unique look that's all your own. The triple herringbone stitch is a great way to add depth and dimension to your crazy quilt projects, and with a little practice, you can make it your own.

Combining herringbone with other stitches

Herringbone and straight stitch

When it comes to adding an extra touch to your embroidery, combining stitches can make all the difference.

One of my favourite techniques is to decorate the basic herringbone stitch with other stitches for an attractive effect. 

Take a look at the sample stitched at the top of this page. To give it an extra boost, I added three straight stitches at the centre top of each horizontal stitch. The result is a beautiful, textured look that adds depth and visual interest to the design. To achieve this effect, I used a hand-dyed Perle thread for the additional stitches, which adds a pop of color and personality to the piece.

Herringbone and french knots

in the next photograph, I used blue Perle cotton to create a group of four French knots at the end of the straight stitch stems I made in the previous step.

The result resembles hydrangeas in the spring, don't you think?

But feel free to experiment with different stitches to achieve a unique look. For example, you could replace the French knots with detached chain stitches to create a daisy-like flower.

You could even use detached chain stitches to create the leaves as well.

The possibilities are endless, and it's up to you to get creative and make it your own!"

Each time I use herringbone stitch in a design or along a crazy quilt seam from now on, I will take a photograph and add it to this page.


What have you used this stitch for?

If you've tried this stitch and would like it featured on the page to give other stitchers ideas, feel free to submit pictures and your story to the site. You could tell us about the project you were creating, what threads and colours you chose and why, whether you found it easy to do, or had difficulties learning the stitch.

If the same issue crops up multiple times I will attempt to help you overcome the problem.

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