Choosing and using the best fabric for hand embroidery

Choosing the best fabric for hand embroidery can make things feel easy… or strangely fiddly. The good news is you don’t need anything fancy to start — you just need something stable, smooth-ish, and not too stretchy.

This guide will help you pick fabric confidently, whether you’re stitching a simple outline, filling an area with satin stitch, or working on clothing.

The quick answer (best beginner fabric)

If you want the easiest start, choose medium-weight cotton (often sold as quilting cotton or craft cotton). It’s steady in the hoop, easy to mark, and kind to beginner tension.

If you’re stitching counted-thread designs (like cross stitch or blackwork on an even grid), you’ll usually be happier starting with Aida cloth or other evenly woven embroidery fabric. 

Best fabrics for hand embroidery (by situation)

For beginners (most forgiving)

• Medium-weight cotton – smooth, stable, easy to transfer designs onto.
• Cotton-linen blends – a little more texture, still steady and hoop-friendly.

 For crisp outlines and neat detail

• Tightly woven cotton (high thread count) – gives clean lines and less “fuzz.”
• Cotton sateen – smooth surface for sharp stitching (and it feels lovely).

For practice pieces

• Calico / muslin – budget-friendly for learning stitches and testing colours.

For textured stitching (when you want a rustic look)

• Linen – beautiful, but the weave can be uneven and it rewards patience.
• Slub fabrics – pretty texture, but outlines may wobble slightly.

For stitching onto clothing

• Stable woven garments (denim, chambray, cotton shirts) are easiest.
• For stretchy knits (t-shirts, jumpers), you’ll usually want help especially if working a counted design. This is where waste canvas comes in useful. 

What to avoid (at least for your first few projects)

These aren’t “bad” — they’re just harder when you’re still learning tension and control:

• Very stretchy fabrics (jersey/knits) – the design can distort in the hoop.
• Very slippery fabrics (silk/satin) – the needle can snag and marks can be tricky.
• Very open weaves (gauze/loose linen) – stitches can sink and outlines can wobble.
• Fluffy pile fabrics (towelling/velvet) – stitching is possible, but transferring and visibility are harder.

Preparing Your Fabric Before Stitching

A few minutes of prep saves a lot of annoyance later:

Cut with extra allowance – Leave a generous border around the edges so you have room to mount or finish your piece later.

Wash and press your fabric – This removes dirt and creases that could affect your stitching quality

Secure the edges - zigzag, overcast, or use masking tape to stop fraying.

Select a pattern – Choose a simple design that matches your skill level to build confidence and develop good technique.

FAQ

Do I need stabiliser?
Not always. For stable cotton and small designs, often no. For stretchy, delicate, or very textured fabrics, stabiliser can make stitching calmer and neater.

Can I embroider on Aida if I’m doing surface embroidery?
You can, but Aida’s grid texture shows and the holes influence your stitch placement. It’s brilliant for counted designs, less ideal for smooth surface shading.

Why does my fabric pucker?
Usually a mix of hoop tension, stitch tension, and fabric choice. A stable fabric and a properly mounted hoop help a lot.