We have covered hardanger instructions for kloster blocks, needleweaving and dove's eyes in the previous pages of this hardanger course.
Now its time to introduce four-sided stitch and a spiders web filling.
Before you follow the hardanger instructions below you need to download the chart. Please respect my copyright on this chart and print a copy for yourself but do not give it away or sell it on to anyone else.
Start by finding the centre of your fabric by folding it in half both ways. From that centre point count up 16 threads and left 4 threads. This is point 1 on your chart (the one which is above the big letter C) and where we are going to start.
Thread a longish piece of the thicker perle 5 into your needle. You can use an away waste knot to secure the end.
Bring the needle up at point 1 and take it back down over 4 fabric threads at point two above. Bring it back up at point 3 (next to 1) and this time make the stitch slightly longer, over 5 fabric threads.
Continue in the same manner making the next three stitches. Then start reducing the length of each stitch again to complete the shaped kloster block.
To begin the second block bring the needle back up in the same hole you used at the bottom of the last stitch. I have numbered this 1 again on the diagram (above the big letter A). This avoids creating a stitch that lies diagonally across the back of the work.
Stitch the second block as before, making sure you carry the thread behind the block on the back. If you only take a tiny stitch from one top point to the next your work will not hold together once you start cutting.
Continue working the kloster blocks re-using the corner holes as before.
Again, avoid diagonal stiches when you start a new block. If these diagonal stitches fall across an area that will later be cut they will become a nuisance and be visible in the final work.
Our next step is to work the border around our design. Click the link for instructions for four sided stitch.
Once the four sided stitch is complete it is time to cut and remove the threads for the openwork area. Only cut where marked with red lines on the chart.
Use a sharp, fine pointed pair of scissors and count carefully before you cut.
You can use your needle to create a "channel" for the scissors. Just pop the needle in the hole used by the first stitch in the kloster block and out again in the last. Gently pull towards the centre to open up a small gap in which to insert the scissor blades.
Each red line on the chart denotes 8 threads to be cut, but I recommend doing this in two cuts of four threads each. Keep the scissors close to the kloster blocks but be careful not to cut the stitches.
Carefully withdraw the fabric threads, using a pair of tweezers if it helps.
Again using the finer perle 8 thread needleweave the first three bars only.
Weave the four exposed threads in a figure of eight motion, taking the needle over two then under two threads. Pull the stitches firmly and work enough to fill the bar comfortably without packing in so many that it begins to bend out of shape.
Thread your needle with perle 8. Secure the thread behind the kloster blocks, then take it across the centre hole from A to B.
Bring it through from the back of the work and then wrap around this "thrown thread" 4 times. Re-insert the needle at point A from the front. Continue by needleweaving the fourth bar.
Carry a second diagonal thread across from C to D. Take this over the top of the existing thread.
Bring the needle up from behind the work at D. Twist around this bar twice then pass the needle under both threads at the intersection.
Weave under then over alternate bars to form a circular spiders web at the centre. Try to keep this flat and smooth.
When your web is the size you require, finish your stitching next to the thread leading to C. Wrap this thread twice then reinsert the needle at point C. Fasten off through the back of the kloster blocks.
I hope you are finding this series of lessons helpful. If there is any point in the hardanger instructions where you get stuck just let me know.