How to Work the Four-Sided Stitch: Horizontal, Vertical and Diagonal

I often introduce the four-sided stitch in my Hardanger course as it's one of the most straightforward pulled thread techniques you'll encounter. It is sometimes referred to as the double backstitch or square filet stitch, and is particularly popular in whitework embroidery.

What I particularly like about this stitch is that it creates attractive, clearly visible holes without any need for cutting or removing threads, making it less daunting for those new to pulled work.

Whilst you'll need some basic embroidery experience before tackling this stitch, don't let that put you off. The main challenge is maintaining even tension throughout your work. Don't worry, I'll give you some tips for that shortly.

I always remind my students to count carefully as they stitch. Unpicking pulled thread work isn't something you'll want to do if you can avoid it!

For traditional projects, I recommend using thread that matches your fabric colour. This creates that classic pulled work effect that's particularly striking when light catches the pattern of holes.

You'll find this stitch creates neat squares on the front of your work and crosses on the back, as shown in the photos below.

The front: neat squares

The back: crosses

You can work it horizontally, vertically or diagonally depending on your design needs. Whichever direction you work in, I advise using an embroidery hoop as it will help you keep your tension even throughout.

Let me walk you through the process... but first a cautionary tale that may make you giggle.

Four sided stitch worked horizontally

This embroidery stitch is used in my free hardanger coaster project, which is part of my free learn hardanger course.

You can also see it in use in the downloadable hardanger design Wish Upon a Star.

Here is what you'll need

• Perle cotton 8, for 22 count hardanger fabric
• or Pearl cotton 12 for finer fabrics like 28 count evenweave or 32 count linen
• A tapestry needle suitable for your thread weight

Here's my method (over 4 threads)

1. Bring your needle up at your starting point (1 on the diagram)
2. Count over 4 threads and take your needle down.
3. Come back up 4 threads to the right of your starting point (3 on the diagram).
4. Work a horizontal stitch by reusing your first hole (4 on the diagram).
5. Come up at point 5 and then down again at point 6.

The horizontal method diagram. Click it to open full size.

Keep an eye on your pattern! It's surprisingly easy to get into a comfortable stitching rhythm and suddenly realise you've worked beyond your intended stopping point.

Getting your tension right

Getting your tension right is crucial for this stitch, so let me share my approach:

Before pulling: the stitches lie flat

After pulling: threads bunch and holes open

Here's my method for maintaining even tension:

• Complete each square fully before pulling.
• Hold your fabric slightly taut in an embroidery hoop or frame.
• Pull your thread slowly and deliberately, in the direction of the stitch.
• Check your work frequently from the front. The holes should look uniform.
• If you notice one hole is larger than the others, ease off your tension on the next few stitches.

A common mistake I see is pulling too hard on the first few squares and then struggling to match that tension throughout the rest of the work. It's better to start with moderate tension. You can always adjust slightly as you go along.

Four sided stitch worked in Vertical rows

Stitching four sided stitch in vertical rows is a technique that is as straightforward as the horizontal method once you understand the sequence.

While you could turn your work 90 degrees and stick to working horizontally (especially if using a hoop) I found the vertical approach particularly useful when working in a rectangular frame.

I've included a separate diagram below, to guide you. You'll notice the numbering sequence varies slightly from the previous method.

The vertical method diagram. Click it to open full size.

Four sided stitch worked diagonally

Once you're comfortable working this stitch in horizontal and vertical rows, the diagonal version opens up a whole new direction. Literally.

Diagonal four-sided stitch creates a stepping pattern of squares that moves across your fabric on the slant. The front still shows those familiar neat squares, and the back still shows crosses. The only difference is the path your needle follows to get there.

This diagonal method is also the seventh and final band of the free whitework sampler, so if you have been stitching along, this is where your sampler gets finished.

The finished diagonal band

Let's look at the chart

When looking at the sampler chart, you will notice a red row of triangles at the top. This row is actually part of the previous band and is included to help you understand where the current band begins.

See the zig-zag line on the chart? That is what we'll be focusing on this time. Each step on the zigzag is one square of four-sided stitch.

The band chart. Click it to download a printable PDF version.

How to work diagonal 4 sided stitch

To create this band, we'll be using perle 8 thread in either white or ecru, depending on the color of your fabric. As we stitch, we'll apply tension to form small holes at each corner of the stitch.

When working on your embroidery project, it's important to pay attention to the placement and direction of each stitch. You should work each stitch over three fabric threads, as illustrated in the diagram below.

Be sure to follow the arrows showing the direction of each stitch. This will create a series of squares on the front of your work, and crosses on the back. When you complete the last stitch of one square, you're already positioned to start the next square one step down and across. The squares share corner holes where they meet, which is what creates the diagonal stepping pattern.

The diagonal method diagram. Click it to open full size.

Worked in a thread that matches your fabric, the stitches themselves almost vanish. What remains is the pattern of holes, and that is the design. Compare it with the photo of the stitched band above.

The same band worked in matching thread. The holes are the design.

• Count carefully at the turns. The trickiest moment is where the diagonal band changes direction. Double-check your position against the chart before committing.
• Keep your tension consistent with what you established on the horizontal and vertical rows. The holes should look the same across all three directions.

More Pulled Work Stitches

Ready to try the four-sided stitch yourself?

I've included this stitch in Lesson 4 of my free Hardanger course. It's a perfect starting point if you're intrigued by pulled thread work or Hardanger but unsure where to begin.

The course breaks everything down into manageable steps, and this stitch is just one of the essential techniques you'll master. Why not join me?

Hardanger patterns featuring the four-sided stitch