What is hardanger embroidery?

Hardanger embroidery is a simple form of whitework named after the area of Norway where it is found. This form of needlework involves counted thread stitches, drawn thread work and some pulled thread embroidery.

Traditionally used for linens, caps, and especially aprons, the work was carried out on white fabrics as fine as 50 threads to the inch using white thread, but coarser fabrics and coloured threads are often used nowadays.

Is hardanger hard? No, the stitches used are simple but counting accurately is important!

I'm scared of cutting the wrong thread! When I have taught hardanger embroidery at workshops this is everyone's first comment. It can be worrying taking the scissors to your work after you have put time and effort into the stitching, but by following the special red lines on my charts you will see clearly which threads to cut and which to leave well alone! If you do happen to make a mistake all is not lost there are ways of rectifying the problem.

My students tell me that the most helpful thing I told them in the beginning was to remember to breathe whilst cutting the threads. I haven't had anyone pass out on me yet, so I guess they all learned this lesson pretty quickly.

Not tried it before? Learn hardanger with my free course on this site which covers the basic techniques.

Threads to use in Hardanger embroidery

Two sizes of thread are used in Hardanger designs, the thicker one being used for the kloster blocks and surface stitching, while the finer thread is reserved for the needleweaving and filling stitches. Pearl cotton is ideal for this embroidery and the following table will help you choose the right size thread to use of your particular hardanger fabric.

Fabric Count Thick thread Thin thread
22 count hardanger or oslo Pearl no. 5 Pearl no. 8
28 count evenweave Pearl no. 5 or 8 Pearl no. 8 or 12
32 count evenweave Pearl no. 8 Pearl no. 12 (or crochet cotton)

Needles and equipment for Hardanger

Tapestry needles are used for stitching this form of embroidery. You will need two sizes, one for each thread. Try a size 20 for the Pearl no 5, size 22 for the Pearl no 8, and a size 24 for Pearl 12.

Very sharp, pointed embroidery scissors are necessary for cutting the threads cleanly, those with angled blades make life a little easier.

I find that the kloster blocks and surface stitching is easier to do if the fabric is secured in an embroidery hoop. I remove it before cutting the fabric threads, however. Like me, you may also find the needleweaving easier to do "in hand" rather than with the fabric in a hoop.

A small pointed pair of tweezers may also come in handy for easing out the fabric threads after they are cut. Oh and a little container, in which to pop the cut threads, can help to keep your working area neat and tidy.

Hardanger Patterns

As a hardanger design can be rather large some designers use a form of shorthand on their patterns, where each grid line represents two fabric threads, thereby reducing the graph size. However, I prefer to produce charts where each fabric thread is shown as one line on the graph, so that if the graph shows 4 threads then you count 4 threads of the fabric. It seems more straightforward and easy to follow in my opinion, but can lead to patterns being printed over a number of pages. If after stitching my learn hardanger free course you move on to another designer's patterns please keep this in mind.

My hardanger patterns are available to purchase in two forms: a printed pattern that will be sent by post to your snail mail address or in a downloadable form that you print from your own computer. Whichever you choose, have fun and enjoy your hardanger embroidery.