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What is whitework embroidery?
The term whitework embroidery has covered a large range of techniques through the years. A basic description would be that it is white stitching on white fabric, but that wouldn't really do it justice.Whether it is delicate hollie point on a baby's bonnet, intricate reticella (as shown in the photo, right) or a cushion cover worked in hardanger, there is a style to suit all. Colour isn't necessary as the decoration is formed by altering the fabric itself, in one way or another, by the use of self coloured threads. In Richelieu and cutwork embroidery, needleworkers cut the fabric and removed it in some areas, while others pulled the fabric threads together and eventually they realised that they didn't even need fabric at all! The stitches themselves form the fabric in techniques such as needlelace or "punto in aria" which literally translates from the Italian into "stitches in the air". It can be difficult on occasion to decide whether a piece of whitework embroidery should be labeled thus or as lace, and visits to textile museums will sometimes find samples in either section. Of course it was much cheaper to produce white embroidery than lace textiles.
Cutwork embroidery - (left)
Richelieu Reticella Hollie Point Drawn Thread Work Pulled Work Hardanger Embroidery Needlelace Cutwork embroideryCutwork was the forerunner to later needlemade laces. It seems to have first been mentioned in 12th Century chronicles when it was worked by nun's and kept secret from the general public. In those times it was used on priests sacramental robes and on grave cloths for saints.During the 15th to 17th Century's upper class ladies took up creating cutwork and in addition to making alter cloths as gifts for the church they also used it to decorate their fine linens. The original cutwork techniques expanded and became the basis of various other techniques.
Richelieu embroideryRichelieu was based on the early cutwork embroidery and was popular between the 14th and 16th centurys. Designs consisted of shapes, outlined in buttonhole stitch with bars crossing the open areas cut away between them. The bars were again covered with buttonhole stitch with the addition of picots or tiny loops midway.This form of whitework embroidery was often used for tablecloths or mantlepiece edgings, where a coloured fabric was attached behind the work to show up the open areas. A sturdy form of embroidery, it stood up to washing well and pieces still survive today.
Reticella
Richelieu was superseeded by Reticella, which was apparently also known as Greek Point. It was the first of the needlelaces with the fabric only used as a support whilst working. Threads were laid across a pattern, couched in place and then overcast or buttonhole stitches were worked over them, decorated with picots. It is considered by many to be the most beautiful examples of needlework but does take time to construct.Reticella was again used for altar cloths, church vestments and also as starched trimmings to the ruffs that were in fashion between the 15th and 17th centurys. The photograph, right, is a piece of modern Reticella stitched by Jenny Bargh from Sydney, Australia. Jenny adapted a pattern she found in an Italian magazine "Rakam" to make this gorgeous example of the technique. Jenny has her own blog at http://jennysaustralianneedleart.blogspot.com where you can see more of her work. She kindly agreed to let me showcase her work here for you, thank you Jenny.
Hollie PointAnother whitework embroidery technique popular in the middle ages, hollie point, or holy point, was also worked by nun's. It was orignially used for church laces and it often included sacred emblems such as Adam and Eve or lillies.Worked in Hollie stitch, which is a buttonhole stitch with an extra twist, the pattern was formed by the spaces between stitches somewhat reminiscent of filet crochet. After the 17th century it was often used on baby garments such as caps or bonnets and christening gowns or blankets. Drawn thread workThe term drawn thread work relates to a form of whitework embroidery where a number of evenly woven fabric threads are removed and the remainder are grouped together in clusters forming solid and open areas in a design.Decorative hemstitching can be worked if the threads are removed in one direction only, for edges or insertions. It is also possible to remove threads in both directions and bind the remaining threads together to form a grid that can then be further embelished with stitching such as needleweaving or darning. The resulting area is known as a withdrawn ground.
Pulled thread embroideryAlso known as drawn fabric or pulled work, this form of whitework embroidery does not rely on removing threads but rather moving them. The stitches pull the threads into bunches allowing the holes formed to make the patterns. Pulled work is not as effective when worked with coloured threads as the stitches themselves are not meant to be seen.Why not learn pulled thread while stitching a free step-by-step band sampler. Or check the Stitch Index for many different pulled work stitches. Hardanger EmbroideryHardanger embroidery is named after the area in Norway where it originated. This needlework uses pulled and drawn thread work with the addition of surface embroidery in satin stitch. The areas where the fabric threads have been removed are wrapped or needlewoven and lacey filling stitches are worked in the gaps.Traditionally hardanger embroidery was used to decorate aprons, clothing and household linens. Modern hardanger often uses colour and can be effective stitched this way. There is a whole section about hardanger on this website including:
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The early whitework techniques lead to the realisation that you did not actually need the fabric to stitch on. It was possible to make "stitches in the air" and create the fabric itself. Using the same simple buttonhole stitch it is possible to create gossamer fine needlelace or padded pieces that have the look of carved ivory.
