This free hardanger pattern introduces buttonhole stitch, a simple way to finish the edges of your hardanger.
This is part 3 of my beginner hardanger course and you can check out the other lessons by clicking on the images in the right hand column of this page.
You will need Adobe Reader (the latest version is recommended) installed on your computer in order to open and read the chart for this free hardanger pattern.
You can get Adobe Reader here (a new window will open so you can download without leaving this page).
If you want to open the file in your browser window, you can just click on the link. However, if you want to download the file to view later, then right click on the link and choose "Save Target As" or "Save File As." Then select where you want to save the file on your hard drive.
Once you have saved the file, locate where you saved it, and double click to open.
In order to print, open the downloaded file, and select the "Print" option from the menu.
Start stitching your free hardanger pattern by using the Pearl 5 (the thicker of the two threads) to work the kloster blocks following the chart. Remember, each stitch in the Kloster block covers 4 fabric threads.
You will note that on the pattern I have added arrows on top of the first few blocks to give you a guide as to which "route" to take. When you reach a block that has already been stitched, just pass your needle through the back of the block in order to stitch the next one.
Ignore the outer row of stitches as these denote the buttonhole stitch edging to be worked next.
Before we do any cutting we will stitch the buttonhole stitch edge, again with the pearl number 5 thread. Follow the chart for placement.
Secure the thread with a waste knot and work from left to right.
Take the needle up through the fabric at A, on the diagram below, and down again at B one thread to the right and four threads up.
Leaving the thread loose bring the needle up at C within the loop. Pull the thread to enable the stitch to lie comfortably against the fabric. Continue in the same manner taking the needle back down at D.
To turn an outside corner leave one hole free (marked with a red square on the diagram (above), before working the three numbered stitches on the diagonal. Then miss another hole (marked with a blue square) before carrying on until you reach the next turning point.
The corner hole will be used five times so be careful not too pull this too tightly to avoid making the hole large and unsightly.
To work buttonhole stitch around an inside corner take the needle down at E (diagram above). Bring it back up over the thread to form the loop at the corner point.
Whilst stitching the buttonhole stitch edging around your free hardanger pattern you may run out of thread.
There is a method of starting a new length without the join showing.
Do NOT end on a corner!
Leave the old thread to one side and secure the new one through the back of the existing stitches. Bring the new thread through, one hole to the right of the last stitch (at point F on the diagram above). Continue stitching as before.
To complete the join, slip the old thread through the first loop made after the join and take the needle down through the fabric at G to fill in the missing upright stitch. Fasten off at the back of the work.
When the buttonhole edge is completed, work the square eyelets where marked on the chart using the finer no. 8 thread.
These can be pulled if desired to enlarge the centre hole.
To achieve a neat eyelet begin at point A (on the diagram below), one hole away from the corner. Take the needle down into the centre hole B and up at C to continue the eyelet.
Next, take a sharp, pointed pair of scissors and begin cutting. The fabric threads to cut are shown on the chart by red lines inside the kloster blocks.
I like to use a needle to make a channel for the scissors to fit into.
Take your needle and insert the tip before the first fabric thread that you need to remove, bring the needle back up again after the last thread. In this case you will end up with four fabric threads on the needle.
Pull the needle firmly towards what will be the hole in the fabric so as to open the threads a little. This gap will be big enough to slip the point of the scissors into. Keeping the scissor blades open gather the four threads and double check before closing the blades and snipping the threads in one movement.
Using tweezers gently pull on the cut threads to remove them from the work. Have a tub handy in which to put the discarded threads.
Once the cutting is finished you will be left with open areas surrounded by four empty fabric threads.
Using the finer no. 8 pearl cotton you will needleweave these together to form neat bars.
Attach the thread to the back of the kloster blocks and then take your needle under two, over two, backwards and forwards until the once naked bar is comfortably filled with stitches. Don't squeeze too many stitches in otherwise your bars will begin to bend and not look as tidy in the finished piece.
After needleweaving three sides of the "square" left by the withdrawn threads, you need to just work half of the fourth bar, at which point we will work a doves eye filling stitch.
I have given directions for these in lesson 2.
Once all stitching is complete it is time to cut away the excess fabric around your hardanger bookmark. Turn your work over so that you are cutting from the wrong side. You will be able to get the scissors closer this way. Gently push the looped edge of the buttonhole stitches aside whilst you cut beneath them. Take it slowly, don't rush!
I hope you have enjoyed stitching this free hardanger pattern. If you don't read much yourself, you could give your bookmark to a friend who will marvel over your skills!
Mar 08, 17 06:42 AM
I am embroidering a monogram on a pillowslip which makes it difficult to use an embroidery ring. Any suggestions please.
Feb 17, 17 05:24 PM
I have an old cross stitch pattern calling for 18 count even weave. I can not find any! I would like it an off white as there are areas with white stitches.
Feb 04, 17 02:02 PM
A guide to reversible cross stitch. One of a number of cross stitch methods which gives your cross stitch a neat back