Embroidery threads and how to use them

Hand embroidery threads come in all the colours of the rainbow, and more besides, but there are certain basic techniques we need to master when using them. Like how many strands of cotton floss to use on different count fabrics, how to separate each strand (see below) how to begin and how to fasten off. And then, of course, we need to keep them tidy and organised. So let's learn how . . .

Separating one strand

The next hurdle facing them is how to separate just one strand from Anchor or DMC embroidery thread skeins. I have seen people get into all sorts of tangles, whilst using both hands, teeth, elbows and other body parts to try to hold part of the thread length. The following video shows a simple way that can save time and frustration. If you need to use two strands just repeat!

How many strands to use

A question I am often asked is how many strands of DMC embroidery floss to use for cross stitch on certain fabrics so I thought this little table may help.

Fabric count	Number of strands
11	3
14	2 or 3
16	2
18	1 or 2
28 (over 2 threads)	2
32 (over 2 threads)	1 or 2
36 (over 2 threads)	1

Methods of starting your hand embroidery thread

Right, we have the right number of strands in our needle how do we start stitching and what do we do with the loose end.

There is an easy, neat way of starting a piece of floss if you need to use 2 strands called the loop method. However, there is a drawback to it. Be sure you can count accurately before you use it! It makes a secure starting point but one that is difficult to undo. I always suggest to a new student that they leave the loose ends free for a while until they are sure their stitches have been placed in the correct position. If they make a mistake, and the error is near the beginning of the piece of floss, as my mistakes usually are, it may be easier to unpick a few stitches from the start rather than taking the yarn all the way back from the current position.

OK how do we tackle this loop method. Well start by stripping one strand from the six stranded cotton. Cut it twice the length you would normally use to stitch with. I find around 28-30" is a good length. Take both ends and place them together, so that the length is folded in half. Thread these through your needle leaving a loop at the other end. Push the needle through the fabric from the back leaving the loop hanging loose. Take the needle to the back of the fabric and pass it though the loop before pulling tight. There you are, a neat, secure starting point. The photo shows the back of the work.

The second method of starting is again to cut a length of embroidery floss twice the normal length you would sew with. Do not fold it in half this time, however.

Pick your starting point and pull only half through the fabric. Leave the other half for later. I find it helps to pop this end into a spare needle and bring it through the fabric at the edge of the work and "park" it there for the time being. This keeps it out of the way so it doesn't get tangled on the back.

With your first needle, work your stitches until you run out of cotton. Then return to the other needle and continue stitching. This method reduces the number of fastening offs you need to do, which in turn keeps the reverse of the work neater.

Starting with a waste Knot

On occasions it is OK to start with a knot. After knotting the end, push the needle through the fabric from the FRONT of the work, leaving the knot sitting on the surface a few inches away in the direction that you will be stitching. Bring the needle back through to the front in the correct position to start stitching and work over the first few stitches over the end of the thread. After a few stitches you will be able to snip off the knot, leaving the end neatly secured.

Starting with an away waste knot

Similar to the method above, for an away waste knot you bring the needle to the front of the work away from the direction of stitching. When the knot is later cut off you will need to thread the needle with this end, and fasten it into the back of the stitches. This technique is often used in hardanger or pulled work where you don't want to run the risk of the end showing underneath open areas of the design.

Fastening off

The neatest way of fastening off is to weave the loose end under half a dozen stitches on the back of the work and then cut it off close to the stitching.