How to do blackwork - Outlines

All set to tackle your first project but need to know how to do blackwork? Full of questions, like where to start the outlines or fills, what stitch to use, how many strands of floss? Let me help you untangle the craft of blackwork.

Do I need an outline?

Getting those outlines in place first is the best place to start. If you are a keen cross stitcher this will probably seem backwards but when you think it through it makes sense. The outlines give you an edge to work up to when you fill the area with patterns. You don't need to count the number of repeats and work out where each one finishes, you just stitch until an outline stops you. Easy!

Some blackwork designs, however, don't use outlines. The fill pattern suggests the outline as shown in the pictures below.

blackwork-sailing-boat (30K) In this blackwork sailing boat design your eye follows the edges of the patterned areas and automatically puts in an outline even though it is not there. This is made easier by the small repeating fill patterns that have been used.

how-to-do-blackwork-without-outlines (28K) The second boat is stitched inside the same imaginary outline, but this time a larger pattern is used in one of the sails.

Can you see how it is more difficult to draw the outline of the sail in your mind? The gaps between pattern repeats are too large and the eye cannot tell where the outline should be.

blackwork-dog-assisi-style (26K) Another method of how to do blackwork without outlines uses a technique borrowed from assissi work. This time we have stitched the background and left the picture empty.

The pattern size chosen depends on the overall dimensions of the design. A small design like this dog needs a small fill pattern so as to not lose the "virtual" outline. On a larger design you could get away with a bigger fill pattern.

If this idea appeals, you may like the blackwork kits on my small animals page.

How many strands of floss should I use?

If a design uses outlines (and most do) you would normally use 2 strands of floss to stitch the outlines and a single strand for the fills.

Alternatively you could use a thicker thread to work the outlines, such as cotton a broder no. 16 and use the stranded cotton as normal for the fill patterns.

What stitch should I use for blackwork outlines

Personal preference plays a part here. Ideally you would double running stitch (also known as Hobein stitch) as it gives a clean, sharp outline which looks the same on the back and front of the work. The free pattern shows you how to do blackwork in double running stitch.

However you could also use backstitch, but would get a thicker line on the back of your work. The main disadvantage of backstitch is that it tends to show through from the back when you turn a corner, especially if you are working on finer fabrics.

You can "cheat" a little and work a variation called running back stitch, shown in the diagram below, so that the shadowing at the corners is removed.

Other stitches you may like to use for outlines when you are learning how to do blackwork include chain stitch, stem stitch, coral knots and couching.

Once the outline is in place you can make it more prominent by whipping it. All you do is slip a threaded needle under each stitch without going through the fabric.

Worked in the same colour as the outline stitches this method can disguise the small gaps between the stitches creating a more solid line.

If, however, you use a metallic thread for the whipping it can look really attractive.

Right, once the outline is in place its time to learn how to do blackwork fill patterns. Still with me? Let's go!

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